MiCo—Milan’s ultramodern conference center—was a fitting venue for tonight’s Missoni show, which celebrated its 65th anniversary by looking towards the future. And in that sense, the runway, situated underneath the building’s vast, spacecraft-esque golden roof, otherwise known as “the comet,” was almost like a landing strip, with the models looking as if they just stepped off the Star Destroyer, their hyper-luminous skin and metallic pastel gazes on full display.
“They kind of look like beautiful aliens,” makeup artist Lynsey Alexander says with a laugh while dabbing a shimmering lilac pigment—a bespoke mixture of cream, powder shadow, and MAC’s neutral white Reflects Pearls glitter—around Texan beauty Sara Grace’s wide eyes. “The look is very futuristic and sci-fi; it’s slightly otherworldly with a kind of magical feel to it.”
In addition to the pearlescent purple, there were light-catching pastels in shades of aqua, lime, and silver, which were specifically designed to coordinate with the Italian fashion house’s signature chevrons and metallic threads saturated in this season’s frosty brights and neutrals. “Colors like this can look very pretty and bridal,” explained Alexander with regards to turning up the wattage above-neck. “But I wanted the girls to look tough and strong.” Blending the pigments towards the inner corners in a C shape, from the middle of lids to just past the tear ducts, the eye designs put a subversive slant on the classic smoky eye. And taking the look to the next dimension, Alexander added a backdrop of skin veiled in Silver Strobe Cream, then draped the high planes of the face in iridescent Cream Color Base in Luna for a full moon-rivaling glow.
With sleek, mid ’90s-inspired manes that found small strands pulled back on either side of the face by hairstylist Anthony Turner, the models—Gigi and Bella Hadid sporting gleaming silver lids that played off the muted gray tones in their bold striped outwear; Adesuwa Aighewi’s lids were swathed in blue to play off her head scarf and indigo patchwork ensemble—and their sparkling pastel eyes and fluorescent silver complexions beamed under the lights. The takeaway? The Missoni woman lives for a color story—to outer space and back.
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